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Tell me what's wrong with your 370Z.. Cause I'm gonna tell you what's wrong with mine..

58 posts in this topic

Posted · Report post

by far the worst issue for me is clicking rear axles. i retorque the culprit an extra 10Nm each time and choose another section of the cap & fit a new cotter pin. happens every 3500-4000km. now i'm starting to believe the guys who reckon it's the wheel bearings going but it could also just be worn hub splines which most have coincidentally replaced as a whole unit instead of just the bearing itself.

next would be the sticky hatch issue. the 'upgraded' spring solution failed in 2 weeks.

Sucks to hear your clicking is still there haha, like I said but take it from me we have thrown multiple goes at the same cars over the years and they always come back.

As for the boot not popping high enough, if you are out of warranty or the new springs are just as bad, there is a 1.5kg weight that can be removed from the hatch to help it pop again. It's there so little jap women can close it with ease, threw mine out the second they failed, no problems now. Just take the rear hatch plastics off and it's the square weight in the middle.

2012+ have an improved strut and less prone to wear the 2 rubber spring units attached to the hatch

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Posted · Report post

yeh it sucks balls man. maybe it's just a sign i got too much powahhhh! i did install HFCs and the intake in the past 4000km so that cant have helped. i ordered two new castle nuts and they should arrive today. i'll fit tonight with a new cotter pin, torque to spec and report back in 4000km lol. speaking of torque - do you guys do ALL of them up to a certain torque or follow the service manual specific to the year model?

for those who are wondering, the stock nut is just a flange nut. some models will have a cap fitted over it, with a cotter pin driven across it to pivot the castellated cap which should prevent the nut beneath from spinning. i think that's a shit design because the cap is made of thin steel and with enough torque from the axles, the nut can easily overcome it.

i've researched and found a suitable castle nut (nut with the slots cut into the end) that matches the thread. hopefully this will be the final solution.

i might cave and remove that counterweight lol

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Posted · Report post

yeh it sucks balls man. maybe it's just a sign i got too much powahhhh! i did install HFCs and the intake in the past 4000km so that cant have helped. i ordered two new castle nuts and they should arrive today. i'll fit tonight with a new cotter pin, torque to spec and report back in 4000km lol. speaking of torque - do you guys do ALL of them up to a certain torque or follow the service manual specific to the year model?

for those who are wondering, the stock nut is just a flange nut. some models will have a cap fitted over it, with a cotter pin driven across it to pivot the castellated cap which should prevent the nut beneath from spinning. i think that's a shit design because the cap is made of thin steel and with enough torque from the axles, the nut can easily overcome it.

i've researched and found a suitable castle nut (nut with the slots cut into the end) that matches the thread. hopefully this will be the final solution.

i might cave and remove that counterweight lol

The M/T will have the cap over the nut and A/T will not.

Think the torque of the nut with cap is 110nm and without is 180nm but I do both types to the 180. The pin and this cap are really just in the event of a loose nut they are common fit in all cv shafts.

I have mine at 280nm ATM with no issues and minimal noise, (nut of that size will take well up to 350-400nm)

In my experience the cause is not limited to just one sometimes: loose nut (RH prone to self loosening), rusty splines, wear in splines ( can be hub splines or shaft splines), no lube on splines ( USA bulletin for this), have heard techline say could be integrity of the cv joint.

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Posted · Report post

i suppose you could torque it up really snug and it wouldnt damage the bearing because you're just sandwiching the hub's centre between the axle and the exterior face of the hub.

you're right there - there has to be some slop somewhere to permit undesired movement. and that's why some folks are satisfied after the cv joint is replaced or the entire bearing & hub assembly is replaced.

as for the lube on the splines - doesnt the USA bulletin specify that the Molykote M77 be applied only to the face which meets the hub base? or is it meant to be applied to the splines also? ffs i really dont want to pull the axles out again!

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Posted · Report post

Haven't seen it to be honest. Can't access it on niscom at work and never tried digging further

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hey mate, i think i'm satisfied i've found the solution to my clicky axle noise. It's been about 8,000km since i did it back in February this year but it hasn't clicked since and i'm driving harder than before, esp with the new throttle curve dialled in. So if anything, it should be clicking by now. It used to click again after 4000ish km each time i retorqued the nut.

 

And there's no Loctite or crazy torque numbers involved!

 

Here's what you need if you want to have a go:

- Kawasaki axle nut (yes, seriously). It's about $15 from your local Kawasaki dealer. I forgot the part number but it's for the same thread and also M32 like the OEM nut. Kawasaki specifies similar torque specs to what Nissan specifies so there's no doubt the nut can handle it. It's made in Japan so it must be good, right? :P

This particular nut is castellated, so it combines the big nut plus the pathetic 'adjusting cap' into one. Unlike the weak prongs of the adjusting cap, the slots in the Kawasaki nut won't get crushed over time from the constant banging of the cotter pin when you accelerate/coast. The slots are also quite snug when you use an OEM cotter pin so again, there's almost no possibility of movement.

- 2-3 of the spring washers (i had a few because i tried to do everything to the T and ordered new nuts, caps, washers, cotter pins.. all to no avail). You'll need the washers to make up the gap because the nut is dimensionally almost identical to an OEM flange base nut.

- New OEM cotter pin

 

Steps:

- Follow all procedures required to remove the axle nut

- Fit required number of washers to make up the gap so that the base of the castellated section lines up roughly with the hole in the axle for the cotter pin. From memory i only needed 2 washers but it's been a while.

- Torque the nut up to the OEM spec for a 370z with adjusting cap. You'll notice that the slots don't line up with the hole in the axle. This is fine. Use your breaker bar and turn the nut until it does line up.

- Fit NEW cotter pin and secure it properly

- Reinstall wheel and enjoy :)

 

Hope you enjoy the same success as i did. You don't have to use a Kawasaki nut but any castellated nut of the same thread and diameter will be fine.

Just as a bit of background for all other readers, i've performed the American TSB (remove axles and lube mating face with X grams of Molykote M77 grease but the problem returned after about 4000km). Since then, i have retorqued the nut twice in +10Nm increments. Both of my axles have clicked at some point. My left side has the Kawasaki nut and my right side has the OEM setup with +20Nm torque. I haven't changed this to the Kawasaki solution and i won't touch it until it clicks again.

 

NB for all readers: As hinted above, this is not a guaranteed solution but just an addition to the various remedies available. YMMV

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Posted · Report post

 

Here's what you need if you want to have a go:

- Kawasaki axle nut (yes, seriously). It's about $15 from your local Kawasaki dealer. I forgot the part number but it's for the same thread and also M32 like the OEM nut. Kawasaki specifies similar torque specs to what Nissan specifies so there's no doubt the nut can handle it. It's made in Japan so it must be good, right? :P

This particular nut is castellated, so it combines the big nut plus the pathetic 'adjusting cap' into one. Unlike the weak prongs of the adjusting cap, the slots in the Kawasaki nut won't get crushed over time from the constant banging of the cotter pin when you accelerate/coast. The slots are also quite snug when you use an OEM cotter pin so again, there's almost no possibility of movement.

- 2-3 of the spring washers (i had a few because i tried to do everything to the T and ordered new nuts, caps, washers, cotter pins.. all to no avail). You'll need the washers to make up the gap because the nut is dimensionally almost identical to an OEM flange base nut.

- New OEM cotter pin

 

Sorry to bump this, but the axle clicking noise is driving me nuts. 

I've sourced the exact Kawasaki nuts (part #92210-0280) but where can I source the Cotter pins (part #400730L700) and washers from locally? Can't find the part number for the washers.

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I have an 09 370z & my cruise control has started playing up... The dash light always works like normal but most of the time it simply won't do anything (I set a speed and it just coasts,  doing literally nothing to control speed of vehicle). The days it does work its usually fine but can occasionally cut-out while doing a set speed.

The problem has gone from happening maybe once a fortnight to recently starting to happen more often than not.

It could be any number of things, hopefully its just the brake pedal switch

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