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IMPORTANT ADVICE: Don't run spacers!

51 posts in this topic

Posted · Report post

First off let me just say, I am stupid, I am silly.

Now that that's out of the way onto the real topic. DON"T RUN SPACERS! I have always heard this being said on the forums, especially if you track your car. Saying that if you wanna get that hellaflush look but can't afford new rims, this is what you would do, myself included. My rears just needed a bit of help so I purchased a set of reputable branded hubcentric spacers of a modest 15mm size which sooo many of the US forum members say that's its fine for track work as they have used it for so long on the track and have not run into any problems, blah blah blah...

I am not completely stupid so before todays track day at Barbs when I was bleeding my brakes I checked to make sure the spacers were torqued properly and that everything was fine. To cut a long story short, halfway during a session I suddenly noticed that my car was shuddering pretty badly and more so during braking. Thank God I decided to quickly pit the car to find out what the hell was wrong.

Left rear wheel hub had sheared a stud as the spacer had become loose!

I could have lost the whole wheel completely and seriously damaged the car and possibly killed myself. Right now I am thankful that I just need to replace the hub as the sheared stud caused damage to the hub, so I am both lucky and blessed.

Morale of the story, please don't run spacers if you can avoid it. Imagine me losing a wheel at 220 kmh down the main straight at Barbs, enough said.

Aaron

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Posted · Report post

dayum, lucky alright!

Soooooo, are we just talking 'hub centric spacers', or the 5/10/15/20mm etc spacers for flush treatment? Just wanna be sure, as i am under the impression i need to run the hub centrics to fit my volks that are apparently on the way??

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Posted · Report post

dayum, lucky alright!

Soooooo, are we just talking 'hub centric spacers', or the 5/10/15/20mm etc spacers for flush treatment? Just wanna be sure, as i am under the impression i need to run the hub centrics to fit my volks that are apparently on the way??

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Posted · Report post

agreed

spacers are for hard parking honda's, not sports cars

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Posted · Report post

shit, well now i'm confused... robothouse has suggested i run the hub centric spacers, and has added them to his car... (he's running the same rims)

How do you find out the specs and other info relative to the CE28N's i have coming then? Really like the rims, and don't wanna have to sell em before i get em, especially since i have waited so long for them, but at the same time, don't wanna risk screwing my car? But then at the same time, have been told that you get wheel wobbles above 80k's or so, but forget where i read that one, and if it related to the exact same rims?

This is all i can find?

http://www.rays-msc.com/wheels/img/68-4-165153.pdf

I have emailed rays telling em i the sitch, so surely they will have advice in the matter orrrr? dayum... now i'm so confused and depressed lol

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Posted · Report post

dayum, lucky alright!

Soooooo, are we just talking 'hub centric spacers', or the 5/10/15/20mm etc spacers for flush treatment? Just wanna be sure, as i am under the impression i need to run the hub centrics to fit my volks that are apparently on the way??

You are talking about a small (tiny) "ring" that has an internal diameter of ~66mm and an outside diameter of 75mm to make sure that your Volks fit nice and snug on the hub ...

Aaronjo is talking about a "ring" which is 25mm thick and "spaces" the wheel hub-face further away from the hub by 25mm ..... these have studs attached and you bolt these onto the stud axle and then bolt the wheel to the spacer ......

These "spacers" are bad news - have been outlawed to motorpsort competition for years as the problem is you cannot check wheels stud torque without removing the wheel - vkinda deferatrs the purpose.

IMHO, aaronjon had a very lucky escape ....

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Posted · Report post

ahhhh - ok, so, just to confirm (again, sorry lol)...

i'll be ok with something like this...

hubcentric-rings-alluminum.image__69387_zoom.jpg

But you guys don't advise using something like this...

ichibatype2spacer.jpg

Correct? :)

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Posted · Report post

shit, well now i'm confused... robothouse has suggested i run the hub centric spacers, and has added them to his car... (he's running the same rims)

How do you find out the specs and other info relative to the CE28N's i have coming then? Really like the rims, and don't wanna have to sell em before i get em, especially since i have waited so long for them, but at the same time, don't wanna risk screwing my car? But then at the same time, have been told that you get wheel wobbles above 80k's or so, but forget where i read that one, and if it related to the exact same rims?

This is all i can find?

http://www.rays-msc....68-4-165153.pdf

I have emailed rays telling em i the sitch, so surely they will have advice in the matter orrrr? dayum... now i'm so confused and depressed lol

Mate ... here is a diagram showing a hub-centric RING ............

http://www.justforwheels.com/index.jsp?cat=hubcentric&sub=how&track=GHR

Here is a diagram showing a hub-centric SPACER which requires (much) longer wheel studs - stud length MUST being increased by at least the thickness of the spacer ....

http://www.zeckhausen.com/Product_Descriptions/hubcentric_wheel_spacers.htm

And here is a diagram showing a hub-centric spacer which is bolted to the hub and which then requires the wheel to be bolted to the spacer ... if the nuts holding the spacer to the hub fail, OR a stud fails, as aaronjo discovered, you are deep in the SH1T ............ IMHO, these sort of spacers are DANGEROUS ...

http://shop.adapterkings.com/product.sc?productId=40&categoryId=2

If you purchase RAYS or similar, you will need a hub-centric ring for sure .... as they manufacture with 75mm bore hole in the wheel BUT Nissan hubs have a 66m (from memory) "lip" on their hubs - so you need the hub-centric ring.

If you wish to change the wheel offset, you can use a hub-centric spacer, BUT you MUST increase the lenghth of the wheel studs by a minimum of the spcer thickness.

NEVER use a spacer which contains its own set of studs, and which you "bolt" to the axle hub and then attach the wheel with the studs mounted in the spacer ... simply too dangerous, and I believe - illegal unde the ADR's ..

RB

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Posted · Report post

ahhhh - ok, so, just to confirm (again, sorry lol)...

i'll be ok with something like this...

hubcentric-rings-alluminum.image__69387_zoom.jpg

But you guys don't advise using something like this...

ichibatype2spacer.jpg

Correct? :)

Absolutely .......

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Posted · Report post

First off let me just say, I am stupid, I am silly.

Now that that's out of the way onto the real topic. DON"T RUN SPACERS! I have always heard this being said on the forums, especially if you track your car. Saying that if you wanna get that hellaflush look but can't afford new rims, this is what you would do, myself included. My rears just needed a bit of help so I purchased a set of reputable branded hubcentric spacers of a modest 15mm size which sooo many of the US forum members say that's its fine for track work as they have used it for so long on the track and have not run into any problems, blah blah blah...

I am not completely stupid so before todays track day at Barbs when I was bleeding my brakes I checked to make sure the spacers were torqued properly and that everything was fine. To cut a long story short, halfway during a session I suddenly noticed that my car was shuddering pretty badly and more so during braking. Thank God I decided to quickly pit the car to find out what the hell was wrong.

Left rear wheel hub had sheared a stud as the spacer had become loose!

I could have lost the whole wheel completely and seriously damaged the car and possibly killed myself. Right now I am thankful that I just need to replace the hub as the sheared stud caused damage to the hub, so I am both lucky and blessed.

Morale of the story, please don't run spacers if you can avoid it. Imagine me losing a wheel at 220 kmh down the main straight at Barbs, enough said.

Aaron

Great you were switched-on enough to recognise all was not well .... I've lost a wheel at T8 at PI many years ago ... couldn't get the smell out of my race suit !!!!

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Posted · Report post

Awesome, thanks heaps for the help/advice and links mate, really appreciate it!! My mind can rest easy now, as i don't think i need to space them out at all anyway :)

And sorry to take your thread off topic aaronjo!!!

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Posted · Report post

Awesome, thanks heaps for the help/advice and links mate, really appreciate it!! My mind can rest easy now, as i don't think i need to space them out at all anyway :)

And sorry to take your thread off topic aaronjo!!!

All is well, don't worry about it. I just want to make sure that fellow owners realize how dangerous these spacers can be. This is not some story that you heard off a friend of a friend or a video on YouTube, this shit is real! I knew about the dangers but ignored it because I wanted the rears to be flush but those 15mm are just not worth it (pun intended). If you are running spacers please consider the risks and remove them. I had to find out the hard way...

Aaron

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Posted · Report post

Great you were switched-on enough to recognise all was not well .... I've lost a wheel at T8 at PI many years ago ... couldn't get the smell out of my race suit !!!!

Thanks for the kind words but simply put I was an idiot for doing what I did but I'll man up to my mistake and happily announce it to the world if it will prevent someone else from potentially getting hurt.

Aaron

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Posted · Report post

Mods pin this thread and mark it ACHTUNG!!!!

Glad you realised and pitted. well posted.

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Posted · Report post

Title updated, pinned and linked to same forum in 370Z section.

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Posted · Report post

Good save mate, seriously! No harm done and lesson learned.

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Posted · Report post

Good save indeed Aaron.

But in saying that, I run spacers on the street. But only cause I am a tight ass and won't buy street rims that are the correct offset, due to the fact that the car will not have 'street' rims too much longer.

As for the track... I know quite a few track cars that run spacers no problems. I have run them on the rear with no dramas either.

The great spacer debate can, and will, rage on forever, but I guess it all comes down to personal preference in the end. Just make sure you know the risks, do the research and make your own informed decision.

P.S Time to upgrade to these --> http://www.injectedperformance.com/arp/arpextendedwheelstudsfor350zg35.htm and some open ended steel wheel nuts.

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Posted · Report post

Good save indeed Aaron.

But in saying that, I run spacers on the street. But only cause I am a tight ass and won't buy street rims that are the correct offset, due to the fact that the car will not have 'street' rims too much longer.

As for the track... I know quite a few track cars that run spacers no problems. I have run them on the rear with no dramas either.

The great spacer debate can, and will, rage on forever, but I guess it all comes down to personal preference in the end. Just make sure you know the risks, do the research and make your own informed decision.

P.S Time to upgrade to these --> http://www.injectedperformance.com/arp/arpextendedwheelstudsfor350zg35.htm and some open ended steel wheel nuts.

I know Shane, I made an informed decision on the spacers and unfortunately for me it all came apart. I just really want ppl to know the consequences of what MIGHT happen if they run spacers. Looks like maybe I might just go down the route on keeping the Works as track rims with R-compounds and get me a set of bling dailies, with the right offsets of course!

Aaron

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Posted · Report post

Left rear wheel hub had sheared a stud as the spacer had become loose!

I could have lost the whole wheel completely and seriously damaged the car and possibly killed myself. Right now I am thankful that I just need to replace the hub as the sheared stud caused damage to the hub, so I am both lucky and blessed.

It doesn't take a spacer working itself loose to do that. Increasing the wheel track also puts more torque on your suspension (by increasing the "m" part of the "Nm") which also increases wear.

This obviously also applies to wheels with super-low offsets, but since people who order wheels with the "right" fitment tend to go wide with a mild offset drop its not as noticeable. Spacers tend to be used more by people buying cheap wheels designed for econoboxes (i.e. narrow and high offset) and then running massive spacers to get them to sit flush.

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Posted · Report post

hahaha 'econoboxes'. Yeah just get the right offset to begin with. +22 FTW! :)

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Posted · Report post

Aaronjo, what sort of spacer were you using? a 15mm bolt on or a slip on? if slip on did you have extended studs?

I've run spacers before on the street, although I probably wouldn't be game to do it on the track. I have never had a problem with bolt on spacers torqued correctly, but I did lose a wheel nut once with 5mm slip ons.. that said it was only one nut and the rest were still tight, chances are I forgot to tighten it.

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Posted · Report post

I was using the Ichiba V2 15mm hubcentric spacers.

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Posted · Report post

Glad you're ok matey.

Ive always steered away from spacers, but have often gone with low offsets.

However having had 2 cars in the past with "nice wheels" but then resulting in rubbing issues, I now opt more for function than form.

Hence why I'm still trying to convince the wife i should buy your big 3" single pipe work :D

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Posted · Report post

hahaha 'econoboxes'. Yeah just get the right offset to begin with. +22 FTW! :)

Not just offset, but widths. The amount of retailers who recommend an 8.5" wide wheel still blows my mind, even before you get to the +35 to +40 offset those wheels inevitably come in. On that kind of wheel you'd basically be running a 30mm+ spacer to get it to sit even remotely flush, and running a single digit offset is going to put a lot of premature wear on the suspension.

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Posted · Report post

you'd basically be running a 30mm+ spacer to get it to sit even remotely flush, and running a single digit offset is going to put a lot of premature wear on the suspension.

More spacer than wheel! lol .Yeah, it's worth spending the extra to get quality jap wheels. I'm running 10.5's on the rears and they sit flush with the offset running -1.5 camber.

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