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Square. 285-wide on a 10-inch is perfect but the Clubsprint rules say you can run up to a 295, in which case you will want to go the 10.5...assuming you will fit a 10.5 +15 under a V35 guard, you would definitely struggle on a Z33. Personally I would go the Tracers because they are sexier than RPF1's, but for the track the RPF1 is a superlight wheel, even lighter than the TE37SL.
They are a heavy car with stacks of power. In my discussions with people who have purchased them for track use, they absolutely chew tyres, brakes and fluids so if you're planning on buying one to do more than just the occasional track day in, the costs are a lot higher than something lighter and less complicated (E92, 997), which is why I have gone off them a bit. Also they tend to have overheating problems on the track, particularly the transmission and gearbox / diffs. I'm not sure about regular daily driving, I don't think the costs would be a lot higher than an M3, especially if you're using OEM replacement / service parts. Having said that, they did a TCO study of the GT-R versus a 997 GT3 (or was it a turbo?) when the GT-R first came out and long-term it was cheaper to run the Porsche.
Depends on your exhaust and whether you have a body kit, but the air under the Zed is already pretty turbulent so unless you have twin cannons exiting through a really low rear-bar, like an INGS+1 or something, you won't have that much of a problem.
Potentially your wheel bearings also. It's hard to isolate sounds when you're under the car as the reverberate all over the place. I'm parting my car out soon and will probably be selling my diff with Cusco RS 1.5-way, 3.7 final drive and Nismo finned rear cover if you're interested.
They sure are pretty! Winton two weekends ago my car wasn't turning right, suspected crap alignment as I'd been messing with ride heights a bit before. Took it into get aligned the next week and sure enough 7mm toe out on the left, hahaha, oops!
That would be me, haha. Skim through my car blog, there's a bit of stuff in there.
You can do the modification in stages but there are some things you should do before others. First up you need reliability mods; a good oil cooler and bigger radiator. You could also get a low temp thermostat but they're really only handy if you need to buy yourself an extra couple of minutes, like during a track session. You should do the radiator first because the intercooler and piping snake around it. If you're going Vortech the Koyo 36mm will work with the piping design but the 56mm (or whatever the big and small sizes are). Oil and water temp gauges will let you know if something is wrong, which is handy.
I faffed about for a long time trying to get a GReddy E-manage to work properly but at the end of the day you should just go straight to Haltech, you get much better control of injector scaling and the Haltech MAP-sensor is excellent. I think there is a reflash going around that will also do the job, you might want to look into that because you'll never get the same sort of economy / cold-start properties with a standalone fuel management system (haha F&F quote). When I did my car there wasn't a reflash that would allow the level of timing retard and injector scaling that I needed.
Walbro 255 fuel pump is enough and I have Bosch 720cc injectors, probably get 800cc or 1000cc so you don't have to buy these again if you decide to go E85, there's now also a bigger Walbro fuel pump that you should get so you can go to E85 without any additional costs down the track. E85 will probably get you safely to your 300kw target. Also with cams it's not so much the lift that you want to change, the overlap between intake and exhaust is tuned differently for FI, I believe there's less overlap for FI, so you can get get some FI specific cams but I'm not sure how much power this nets you versus the amount you have to pay for pulling the head apart.
Don't bother with a plenum, the stock one is fine once you go FI, but tuned length manifolds help and will net you a few KWs.
With regard to the various kits out there, Vortech gives you the most flexibility because you can play with gearing ratios to get more boost, also you get very linear power delivery, which is ideal for the track if you're wanting to feather the throttle through the corner. I discounted the ATI procharger because it was rumoured to be very loud and the pulley system was inferior to the Vortech. The other real alternative is the Stillen roots charger, but you need a bonnet hump to clear the charger, which I think is ugly (but to each their own):
But the benefit of roots is big torque down low.
The stock Vortech setup makes around 8 PSI which gets me just under 270kw a the wheel on a conservative(ish) track-tune, you could probably push it out to 280kw on the ragged edge.
I think the VQ as a platform for FI, even when stock, is pretty reliable. I think the Zed has done at least 20 track events FI without any issue, but I have to do a cool-down lap half way through the session otherwise oil and water temps go past the safe threshold, at the end of the day so long as you're keeping heat and revs in check, the engine should live a long life.
From a balance perspective, you add about 25kgs past the front axle-line, it's not end of the world stuff but I have found I've had to work a bit on the suspension and sway bars to balance out the car, once the half-cage went in it was a bit better, haha. The handling package of the 350Z does lend it self to having more power. The longer wheelbase (over the 370) makes it a bit more forgiving when you're standing on the go-pedal and skating around.
So all up you'll probably have change left from $15K and could probably do it for closer to $10K if you were willing to do some of the work yourself.
They are a little bit more buckety but close to the ergo. Would recommend a Stradia over the Gias as the thigh pads are really high on the Gias and I have to slide the seat back in order to get in and out. I think I got them from Jesse Streeter in Japan.
I would vote new box out of the states. I broke 3rd - 4th selector fork in my Zed and had the box rebuilt, and has never felt as tight. Now I have 6th gear synchro ring issues, I have to shift very slowly into 6th, costing a bit of time at PI and Sandown. From memory I paid close to $2K to get a rebuild, a new 350Z box from the states would only be marginally more expensive than that.
The torque setting for all those plugs is somewhere around 20 ft/lb, which is equivalent to about a quarter turn with a 1/4-inch tool. I've had to replace one of the drain plugs before from over-tightening, was lucky to get it out.
FWIW, I change diff every few track days and transmission when it starts to feel crunchy, usually around 3-4 track days. I use the Motul gear stuff in my car.