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Ummmm !! Experienced the 'No start' and the orange key light. 2012 model 370Z. Tried the hammer trick, tried it again and again and again and eventually it released. Leave the accessory light on and removed the fuse. Car starts OK now. Quote from Nissan for a new ESCL(electronic Steering Control Lock) is $1,580.13 plus GST plus labour.
My insurance covers a trailer but, I think it has to be connected to the car.
Definitely worth checking.
Maybe lots of photocopies and distribute them around the servo's and police stations, shopping centres and high schools - especially with a reward offered maybe.
Damn good looking trailer.
wishing you all the best for a speedy recovery
UPDATE - Z1 Motorsports SS Brake Line Kit – 2012 Nissan 370Z – 20 July 2013.
I received news this morning (20 July 2013) from Z1 Motorsports in the USA advising that the replacement front brake lines have been dispatched via FedEx. As discussed in earlier posts, there was a minor production change to the front brake hydraulic line layout on the 2012 model Z.
It will also be worthwhile to note that the brake line information on Z1 Motorsports web site has been altered to more easily identify your vehicle to enable the correct brake lines to be ordered.
Note on the left hand side of this page are two photos displaying the type of end fittings used on the Z brake lines. The production change affects the hose from the mounting on the front damper to the bracket on the strut. ie: The hose closest to the caliper. The 09-11 models have a brass block on each end of this hose; (refer to top photo), and The 2012 model has the alloy chassis mounting fitting where it terminates on the strut bracket. (refer to lower photo). The brass block mounting on the damper is used on both model groups.
The “Premium Lines” order info that is also applicable to AU delivered vehicles can be found here:
UPDATE - Z1 Motorsports SS Brake Line Kit - 15 July 2013.
I last heard from Z1 Motorsports on 11 July 13.
Advice indicates that prototype testing has been completed and production kits for 2012 model brake lines should be available "soon".
I will keep you informed on progress.
Update on Z1 Motorsports SS Brakelines for 2012 Front Brakes.
I last heard from Z! Motorsports on 1 May 2013.
you might recall that I reported that the front brake lines are different on the 2012+ models and the Z! Motorsports SS lines do not fit.
This matter has been outstanding since 25 March 2013 when their brake lines were ordered and paid for.
I was advised that they had confirmed the design change and had ordered the necessary parts to fit a trial set for testing.
Retrieving info from them is like pulling teeth
Photos of the 2012+ brake line layout are shown in the post above by Juld0zer.
Z1 Motorsports SS Brake Line Kit - UPDATE. 2 May 2013.
The Z1 product development team are continuing their investigation of the brake line kit fittintg problems on 2012 + vehicles.
Their latest update follows:
(Quote: Z1) " I have found the different part #’s and ordered some lines to test. I think our best bet is just going to be to make a line that fits your application right rather than try to adapt it.
Once the parts come in and I get a chance to review them on car I will follow up with you.". Unquote.
Just a note of caution to those considering fitting SS brake hoses to their 370Z.
I suggest that you study the layout of the brake hoses and lines displayed in the photos included in the excellent article by KF365 at the beginning of this topic.
The layout of my 2012 model is different and the Z1 SS hose kit will not fit my vehicle.
The subject is currently being addressed by Z1 Motorsport in the USA.
I will keep you informed of progress.
I would place a photo here if I could figure out the secret technique
Thanks for the info and link. The site displayed the same OE layout as shown in K's photos above.
My vehicle is back together - so a bit difficult to obtain a photo.
However the differences between the front brake hoses are shown in the following eBay links.
This item has a female fitting one end and a brass block on the other (as shown in K's photos):
The front brake hose layout on my 2012 Coupe has the same female fitting on both ends as shown here:
The Z1 design follows the OE hose layout with two hoses joined by a brass block and appears to be an exact fit on K's vehicle.
However the OE hose layout on my vehicle is different.
Your informative report is appreciated.
I would be interested to know the year/model of your 370Z please.
I mirrored your operation on the weekend but only progressed to the point of assessing the fitting of the SS brake lines, also from Z1 Motorsports in the US.
My vehicle is a 2012 model and the front brake hoses differ to those supplied and as fitted to your vehicle, - so to others, be warned ??
Referring to your fourth photo, showing the brass block fitted between the last hose and the pipe to the calliper body, this is not on my vehicle.
Instead, the hose has a female fitting with a clip as shown in your first photo.
I have the same issue with my 2012.
The speedo is roughly/very close to 10% slow at all speeds between 40 and 100kph.
This is based on GPS read out from NAVMAN MY350LMT.
Very annoying about 34 in a 40 zone.
I was going to take the issue up at the service - but I guess you have all been there ??
Might have a look at the diff/gearbox sender and see if there are different ratio senders ??
Any ideas ??
Fitting Whiteline Blade Adjustable Swaybars. Some thoughts for consideration.
An important point that may not have received adequate space is setting up and adjusting the Whiteline Blade adjustable swaybars on your 370Z.
The front bar Part # BNF41Z has two adjustment holes in the blade of the bar and the rear bar BNR37Z has three adjustment holes. So what to do ???
Assuming that you wish to set up your car for the street and the occasional track day etc, you will achieve the maximum benefit by adding "rate" to stiffen the front suspension. The simplest way to add "rate" (spring rate) is by fitting a stiffer swaybar. The swaybar adds stuffiness when it is required. ie: when the chassis is laterally loaded -ie: going around a corner. It therefore has little effect on normal straight driving but really comes into play when you need it. All of this is simply about improving the tyre contact patch and therefore improving "GRIP". Quite simple really And, a way better result that fitting coilovers with bone shaking spring rates to achieve the same effect on the street.
I discovered that throwing the Z into a tight corner caused it to jump and skip like a duck on ice being chased by a hungry dog and then, it refused to play as the black box applies brakes to the rear and the ECU drops engine power - talk about "thought police". It is indeed a very clever and effective little black box that is very efficient at taking the "sports car" bit out of the ride Dear Oh Dear !!! What to do ?? Well, fit the front swaybar first. Magic !! most of the jitters have been eliminated. Which holes to use ?? it may always be best to start on the "soft" setting. What does this mean?? It means the outer holes at the end the blade. The longer the lever the less force is required to displace/bend the bar. The inner holes create a shorter lever and more force is therefore required to bend the bar.
The rear bar was then fitted and again set to the soft setting - outer holes. The balance of the chassis now felt right and it was possible to induce mild oversteer and control the vehicle with the throttle without the duck effect. An extra two (2) psi in the front tyres and everything felt really balanced. I have also pulled some the neg camber out of the rear end without any effect on rear end grip. This can be explained because the chassis is "standing up" in a corner. Hopefully this will also reduce camber wear on all four tyres. When the wet weather comes again, I will alter the adjustments - probably stiffer in the front and middle on the rear - that is on standard tyres and rims. Also, (nearly forgot) the rear OEM swaybar end links need to be replaced when fitting the rear adjustable swaybar. For your info, the part # is KLC-141.
Where to go - what to do ?? replacing the front bar is not to bad an activity on the garage floor but the rear - well I contacted Chris at Centreline Suspensions at Thomastown and asked him for a price on the bars and the fitment. Highly recommended.
May I suggest that you consider CGU. They came in with a good price that included new car replacement for two years and repairer of your choice with all the other 'stuff' as well. A windscreen was extra. You'll need to get a personal bank loan to pay for Shannons. They were double CGU. Just for your info -