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My Z34 regularly tops out at 225-240 at PI on entry to T1 (5th not 6th) If it hits a wall then the engine is not breathing. The OEM headers are pretty good so a flat panel filter and CATS would be the first place to look for an engine which is being strangled, If they are OK, lok at air metering (AFM) Has the car received regular maintenance ?? Any maintenance been skipped that might affect the engines ability to breath OR cause increased drag (wheel bearings, brake drag etc)
I have seen Recaro's in a Z34 but they are expensive as they come with an airbag - around $3.5K plus fitting. If you fit a non-airbag equipped seat and drive on the road, you are at risk of a defect notice from Mr Plod.
Stillen shorties with HFC is one alternative. also Z1 MotorSport shorties plus HFC There is no doubt that Long Tube headers perform better but they lack cats and that can cost you a lot of money if caught by officialdom. If a pure race car, then yes, they are the ultimate. If you want bragging rights for the most expensive headers (remember, you still need the rest of the system) then be my guest .... but I would not pay $6-8K for headers and the rest of the exhaust system.
OP, you are playing with fire here ............ If you clearly have no idea about suspension and are intent on tracking it when an incorrectly set up suspension an cause significant car damage and or injury to the driver. Changing the front roll centre without changing the rear roll centre will affect the way the car rolls under lateral load and that cause cause snap over-steer which most track-day newbies simply cannot cope with - usually you spin into the fence and damage the car. Forums ARE NOT in the main a source of reliable information - yes, you can find gems but in the main what you get is personal assertion dressed up as incontrovertible fact. If you do not possess the knowledge, consult a suspension specialist to arrive at a setup that suits you. Starting with cr4p purchased off the web that is not well researched is about the worst place to start - all you will do is risk turning your car into a pig. The NISMO 370Z race cars in the US Grand Am series did not need to relocate suspension pickups and they were plenty fast. I've been tracking my Z34 since 2009 on standard pickup points (replacement FUCA for negative camber only) and am comfortably close to 1m50s at PI and mid 20's at Sandown. Can I ask what you feel in the car now that requires a lowered roll centre ??
JJ My build is based on Sasha Anis' 350Z race engine (his is 3.7 litres and 12:1 - mine is 4.0 litres and 13.5:1) using Jenvey ITB. We have same cams and induction, Sasha has his own Long Tube headers and I have PPE Engineereing LTE. We both have M130 ECu's. He put my induction on his 3.7 litre engine and made 420rwhp at 8200rpm. I figure I will get more torque with increased stroke as well as increased compression - the question is whether the bigger engine continues to breathe above 8000rpm, but the torque will be good for sure The reason it has taken 18 months since I started ... 1. I commissioned the dry-sump system locally first - 4 months to be sure I have an accurate cost on the oiling solution - Daley Engineering system from the US is nearly 3 times the cost. 2. Crank took 21 weeks - 4.5 months they shipped for Jan delivery 3. Donor engine delivered to engine builder with crank/rods/pistons/cams and sump in Feb this year. Then it was all about waiting for porting to finish (spent 40+ hours on the flow bench chasing inlet and exhaust flow over 8 weeks) - this took a "long" time 4. Induction system not sorted until mid-April (6 x ITB), 5. Sequential gearbag arrived in June - then I had to wait a bit because we were building a new house and funding for the engine project became a bit tight. 6. Engine bottom end dummy assembly for clearances finally started last week as the house thing is all done ... overall assembly time is 70-90 hours ........ and the engine builder is not full-time on my engine. So engine and sequential box might be ready to install in Dec. Hoping for engine and gearbox int he car in the new year.
I suspect that the clutch is worn/slipping. What you describe is the classic symptom of clutch that has reached the end of its life as the friction surface has worn to the edge of its tolerance. The more your drive it, the more damage you inflict on the flywheel as the friction (driven) plate is not rotating at the same speed as the flywheel and pressure plate. This causes heat to build up in the flywheel and is not good for the flywheel - too many heat/cool cycles will cause the flywheel friction surface to develop cracks and that can eventually lead to flywheel failure and you do not want that ....
Flywheel usually needs to be machined and simplest way with DMFW is to replace it with single mass ... is a bit noiser but can be resurfaced later. I would not fit a new clutch to a used DMFW, especially if the clutch is slipping now.\ I have an uprated clutch and it is a pr1ck to drive with but i have an engine upgrade on the way which is why I persist with it. For a daily, talk to Australian Clutch Services in Adelaide about a single mass replacement flywheel and OEM standard clutch - they are the manufacturer and might refer you to one of their dealers.
So, you are after the full banana then. A built engine with OEM crank will be $25K minimum and that is assuming you can get your FI kit for ~$10K which is optimistic. Sequential gearbox is $18K for Quaife and 28K for Holinger .......... cheaper to use an OEM auto For the electronics, replacing the ECU is an easy $10K spend if you want launch control, flat-shift and traction control. Integrating RaceLogic will make it more expensive. You will need a dash as no ECU suppliers has the knowledge to drive the CANBUS dash like the OEM system. Neither Haltech or Motec have drivers to run 2 TB, so you'll need a replacement induction system with a single fbw TB So, simplest to stay with the OEM ECU, so your options are ECUTEk or UpRev (which means it will still run your dash and you keep stability control/VDC). If you try to do all this with ECUTEK, the simplest way is to bring one of the US guys over here, because no-one to my knowledge has implemented ECUTEK with all these options here. Someone will tell us I am sure if this is not correct. UpRev is no where near as complete a package so using it means you will pay someone to learn all this stuff - won;t be cheap, and from my reading, it is not as capable. In my view, the cost of the FI hardware "kit" is between one-third to just under a half of the cost of doing an FI upgrade "properly" (which includes opening the engine and replacing rods/pistons and fasteners). Be careful about what you wish for as it is very simple to finish up with a car the sits in the shop for 2 years and costs you 40K+ and may not run well even them As a comparison, my engine is being built for state level motorsports and I have sunk 35K into the engine already (includes a dry-sump and ancillaries as well as a steel crank for durability at 8500+rpm) as well as a gearbox at $18K and the engine is only just starting assembly now .... I started the project 18 months ago, and I am not scheduled to get the engine into the car until after Xmas !!! Tread your own path and make sure you have the funds to finish the job before you start. As a final word of wisdom ...... AAM Competition are showing some of the hallmarks of the old GTM company .... announcing products and taking deposits well in advance of kit availability (look at the US threads on their intake manifold), so I would be very prudent if I was handing money over to them. If it were me, I would be saying "I will pay the deposit by credit card, and if there is no shipping details available within 75 days, I will ask my Bank to charge-back the costs on the basis that goods for which a deposit has been paid are not ready for dispatch". If you pay a deposit and more than 90 days elapses, you have no rights to claim the money back under Visa or MasterCard rules. I would not use PayPal to remit a deposit because regardless of what they say on their website, claiming funds back is not quite as simple as with Visa or MasterCard.
JJ370 Haltech is ONLY PnP full replacement for the DE engine, anything else and you are writing ECU code yourself. Yes, Haltech can implement TC, but again, you will be writing your own TC strategies. You also need to be specific about exactly what is being proposed - is your tuner saying run BOTH the OEM ECU and the Haltech as a piggy-back OR Haltech as a full replacement ? Adding a turbo package can become very complicated if you do not purchase a "system". Trying to be a test pilot an build up from bits and pieces is time-consuming and expensive.