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InterestsMotorsport and Red Wine (consumption). I have been testing the theory for the past 30 years that red wine consumption occurs in three differeing quantities: social, therapeutic and industrial strength ..... but have yet to draw any conslusions, other than "I like red wine".
I have seen Recaro's in a Z34 but they are expensive as they come with an airbag - around $3.5K plus fitting. If you fit a non-airbag equipped seat and drive on the road, you are at risk of a defect notice from Mr Plod.
Stillen shorties with HFC is one alternative. also Z1 MotorSport shorties plus HFC There is no doubt that Long Tube headers perform better but they lack cats and that can cost you a lot of money if caught by officialdom. If a pure race car, then yes, they are the ultimate. If you want bragging rights for the most expensive headers (remember, you still need the rest of the system) then be my guest .... but I would not pay $6-8K for headers and the rest of the exhaust system.
OP, you are playing with fire here ............ If you clearly have no idea about suspension and are intent on tracking it when an incorrectly set up suspension an cause significant car damage and or injury to the driver. Changing the front roll centre without changing the rear roll centre will affect the way the car rolls under lateral load and that cause cause snap over-steer which most track-day newbies simply cannot cope with - usually you spin into the fence and damage the car. Forums ARE NOT in the main a source of reliable information - yes, you can find gems but in the main what you get is personal assertion dressed up as incontrovertible fact. If you do not possess the knowledge, consult a suspension specialist to arrive at a setup that suits you. Starting with cr4p purchased off the web that is not well researched is about the worst place to start - all you will do is risk turning your car into a pig. The NISMO 370Z race cars in the US Grand Am series did not need to relocate suspension pickups and they were plenty fast. I've been tracking my Z34 since 2009 on standard pickup points (replacement FUCA for negative camber only) and am comfortably close to 1m50s at PI and mid 20's at Sandown. Can I ask what you feel in the car now that requires a lowered roll centre ??
JJ My build is based on Sasha Anis' 350Z race engine (his is 3.7 litres and 12:1 - mine is 4.0 litres and 13.5:1) using Jenvey ITB. We have same cams and induction, Sasha has his own Long Tube headers and I have PPE Engineereing LTE. We both have M130 ECu's. He put my induction on his 3.7 litre engine and made 420rwhp at 8200rpm. I figure I will get more torque with increased stroke as well as increased compression - the question is whether the bigger engine continues to breathe above 8000rpm, but the torque will be good for sure The reason it has taken 18 months since I started ... 1. I commissioned the dry-sump system locally first - 4 months to be sure I have an accurate cost on the oiling solution - Daley Engineering system from the US is nearly 3 times the cost. 2. Crank took 21 weeks - 4.5 months they shipped for Jan delivery 3. Donor engine delivered to engine builder with crank/rods/pistons/cams and sump in Feb this year. Then it was all about waiting for porting to finish (spent 40+ hours on the flow bench chasing inlet and exhaust flow over 8 weeks) - this took a "long" time 4. Induction system not sorted until mid-April (6 x ITB), 5. Sequential gearbag arrived in June - then I had to wait a bit because we were building a new house and funding for the engine project became a bit tight. 6. Engine bottom end dummy assembly for clearances finally started last week as the house thing is all done ... overall assembly time is 70-90 hours ........ and the engine builder is not full-time on my engine. So engine and sequential box might be ready to install in Dec. Hoping for engine and gearbox int he car in the new year.
I suspect that the clutch is worn/slipping. What you describe is the classic symptom of clutch that has reached the end of its life as the friction surface has worn to the edge of its tolerance. The more your drive it, the more damage you inflict on the flywheel as the friction (driven) plate is not rotating at the same speed as the flywheel and pressure plate. This causes heat to build up in the flywheel and is not good for the flywheel - too many heat/cool cycles will cause the flywheel friction surface to develop cracks and that can eventually lead to flywheel failure and you do not want that ....