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It would be maps only, the actual software wouldn't change unless you replaced the unit (as far as I know).
The earlier models used a DVD that needed to be swapped, yours would be the hard drive based system, so they would just overwrite whatever is on there.
If you wanted a true upgrade, there was a thread on the370z somewhere about somebody who replaced their factory navigation with the non-navigation face panels (found in U.S etc models), and swapped the controller and plugs for the A/C. When you do that, you can install a normal head unit. That being said, it's a lot of effort and money getting the parts otherwise I would have liked to do this.
eBay (seriously), there's some plastic pieces on there, front lips, etc. Not sure if there's any plastic diffusers though, but there should be side skirts.
I don't think fibreglass would be a big deal on a sideskirt or diffuser though, you're unlikely to scrape or damage them and they're relatively small pieces (not an entire bar for example). Apart from that there's not many options besides getting say Nismo sideskirts/rear bar..
There's no issues with the actual bar and lights, but the two air bag sensors near the fangs/grille will need to be replaced (maybe if you just get new mounts you could swap it over but I'm not sure). I got really annoyed that they were mounted to the bar not the car and gave up on the idea and just ordered a lip for my 09 bar. As a warning they will be clipped in VERY tight, so for those two I just removed the mount off the bumper as opposed to unclipping the wire harness.
As for the wiring, I was planning on running Morimoto Xchange to switch the DRL's on and off with the car, but it didn't work as advertised.. It said to wire to a 12V constant (which I was skeptical about) and I assumed it would handle sensing if the car was on or off, so I tried switching to a switched power source and couldn't get it working.
You'll basically just need to get some sort of relay and wire it from a switched power source to the DRL's and also tap into the parkers (DRL's should turn off when the parkers are on).
Will likely list mine up this weekend if you want it all cheap and are willing to travel, I may have blown one DRL when testing the wiring but it's more likely I just blew the Morimoto Xchange unit (there was a spark when one of the crimps failed and the wire slipped out.. was planning on soldering once I figured out where everything went).
I use a Miccus Mini-Jack RTX if you want another alternative, another member at a meet had the older model (Mini-jack RX).
The main thing is to look out for a Bluetooth receiver that supports A2DP, but doesn't support HFC, this will ensure it doesn't interfere with the car's bluetooth for calls (HFC = handsfree calls, A2DP is for audio streaming). I'm using an iPhoine 8 with it, and have used a 6s and various other friend's phones (iPhone 7's, Google Nexus devices etc) without any issues.
If you're looking at the Miccus options, the one I chose has some more modern audio codecs than the older one (APT-X, etc), which in theory means better audio.
Mine wasn't just the peak gain, my torque and power were higher across the whole graph, particularly down low and up top (at around 3500RPM I didn't get as much gains, but before and after that everything was a lot higher). There was a big gain in torque even at 2000RPM.
That being said, if I had the money, I'd definitely go forced induction..
A tune imo is definitely worth it, my car had throttle lag when warm, and this was solved with a tune (don't bother with a Sprint Booster, etc, these will only trick your car into thinking you're pushing the pedal harder, which wouldn't fix lag). I had a 30kW gain at peak power, but for me it wasn't about numbers and it was about getting some driveability back.
That being said, I do agree that forced induction is the way to go if you really want some big gains. The lag is a bit of a different issue to yours, but is still well worth looking into.
For my intake, the car felt smoother throughout the rev range (this was before the tune), but nothing dramatic. I only got one because it was cheap, even my exhaust and HFC didn't make any noticeable difference before the tune, but I felt it would be a waste to get a tune without some breather mods. I wouldn't be looking at these yet, unless you want to get the most out of your tune (but then you have to draw a line, there's obviously other parts you can throw at the car)
For the throttle bodies, give them a shot but avoid touching the actual throttle plates unless you've done research into how much they will cost to get them re-calibrated.
I do know some people have touched them without any issue, but your experiences may vary. I had mine cleaned on each side of the plate (without opening the plate) when I had my spark plugs changed (which made a mild difference, but like the intakes, nothing dramatic).
Yeah it's definitely more for sound, I was only answering the initial question about the quietest CBE. All of them have fairly similar gains (1-2hp between them but all numbers you won't notice). HFC's are the most restrictive part as Ben mentioned earlier.
I've got an Inividia on mine, am I the only person who reckons it's a bit much sometimes?
Still subtle though compared to the other options from other brands, but definitely wouldn't be as quiet as Fujitsubo Legalis/HKS Silent Hi-Power (had the Fujitsubo Legalis R on another car, was very subtle)
They've got links to those missing pieces in the ad. But yeah, I did forget the DRL's are quite expensive, there were people in the U.S. retrofitting other car LED's which may be an option worth considering (if you have the time and patience).