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I got a quote from a shop in the US @ Approx $500USD for the front fascia itself and then $1500USD for the transport to AU. The LED driving lights as far as im aware are different, these are around $700USD. They did however mention as i wanted to get the rear Nismo bumper that they could package the front and rear in together for combined $1500US transport cost.
I think given the nature of the motor, the standard headers would be the best bang for buck header you could get, being they come free on the car! In terms of performance i dont think the headers are the first exhaust mod that needs to be changed to bring the performance up. I think for the cost also your gains are going to be so minimal vs the cost and time to install aftermarket ones that its simply not worth it. The 350 and 370 imo are better as NA beasts. Obviously people go down the turbo path, but in terms of price efficiency there are far better cars out there to achieve the same goals at a lower cost. As its been said though, if you want to start opening the engine your factory reliability goes out the window, the cost goes up significantly (talking $10,000's) to get turbo setups, cams is not really worth it as a turbo setup is superior. The cars are great as they are in there NA form. Get a nice suspension setup, some good rims with good tyres and you wont need any more power, as it will nearly stomp most things on the street and with good handling setup youll fly on the track.
Pre or Post 2011? The 09/10 without the USB doesnt have BT streaming. You can use the BT for mobile phone calling, but thats it. I wonder if there is a way to instal a newer system into the older model.
Lol thats excellent I recently acquired some replacement stock filters, was time to lose the large number of dead roachs and critters making home in there. The stock system doesnt really seem all that bad, what if rather than having the airbox you could simply fabricate up more pipes than run onto the little intake points where the stock airbox slots onto. Granted you will have no airfilter or you'd need to fashion some sort of long thin foam style filter, but the idea is something like a 13b renesis intake where you have thin intake runner rather than just large open spaces. Gotta get the air flowing fast through. Kind of like how the K&N gen 3 intake is, but start it from the front radiator bracket rather than in front of it
On one of my front wheel drive cars i had the syncros in 2nd and 3rd where pretty much rekt, but one thing i did to compensate and it used to help alot was double clutching. It might help, might not but cant hurt to try
Ah i could try. If you like the sound of Japanese muscle cars then youll like the Invidia CBE and HFC. It sounds extremely grunty, its very quiet on idle, but really opens up when you give it the beans. I will say it will attract attention, but only if your trying too. I can tell you, VQ37 on JUST high flow cats (no mufflers) and no other exhaust its deafeningly loud I did pull my throttle bodies off also and cleaned them out. Even after 60,000km they were really carbon'd up and pretty dirty. So cleaned them out and feels a bit perkier now
I dunno about the wheel studs, but ive seen Autobarn sells slip on spacers. I bought quite a few sets from UPGarage in japan and the sets locally arent that much more expensive so could always try that option!
As for changing wheel studs, you usually just have to knock them through the holes, its more a process of removing whats behind the stud to get them out.
As of last night the new slave cylinder is in. I must say its really not that hard of a job! I found the new slave cylinder is noticably easier to use than the one i had in the car. Examining the dead unit it appears the o-ring has gone hence the leak, but i feel its due to dirt/dust/grit getting into the unit and putting wear onto it. The new unit was very easy to push the cylinder face back and forth, where as the dead unit was quite stiff and not smooth at all. I can even tell the difference in driving now how smooth and easy the clutch is to use compared to before when it was almost the same as i described, but stiff and un easy to push in. Oh well fingers crossed first and last time!
Cheers for the response guys, i really appreciate the help! Yeah i emailed Zspeed about it they seem like decent bunch. I got a bunch of other stuff from z1, they dont seem to sell HD CSC tho, they got the replacement old style slave system. I ended up just biting the bullet and went OEM Nissan. ZSpeed said they wont have them another 3-4 weeks and i dont think i can wait that long! Also i ended up getting the OEM unit for $110 (think i got a discount there) My clutch still seems good and i the flywheel im sure will still ok too, I figured no use replacing bits which are still ok. Other point tho is at current exchange rate i could buy 4x OEM Slaves for the cost of 1x HD Zspeed. I realise its a pain to pull the gearbox out, but im thinking if the OEM one dies again (which is probably will) then ill replace the Dual mass fly with a stock single mass, new clutch and get a zspeed slave, and fingers crossed the AUD is a bit stronger by then too. At least have some time to save for it I wasnt really planning on having to replace the CSC just yet! You guys got any tips or hints at any tough bits or is it all pretty straight forward? Is the box hard to pry off the motor or comes off pretty simple? Ive done some other cars like few 2J toyota's and the box was a bit of a headache.
How are you guys finding the lightening flywheels? this is something ive been seriously considering for a while but hadnt heard of any real experiences with it so wasnt sure. Reckon its worth the upgrade over the dual mass oem unit?