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Batemansbay370Z - How did you measure that 10%????? They are practically the same car..
Loud exhaust noise gives you the illusion that it's breathing better and go faster, granted it will but notice gains on the street or track????
You want to gain real drivabillity difference!! Change your final drive and get a lighten flywheel.. Their is not much movement on these cars in terms of tuning, they are almost maxed out from the factory. Yes tuning it will make it drive better but for $1500 is it really worth it?? Unless you boost then you'll notice a big difference..
I'm running a 4.08 FD and replaced all the bearing etc..and also replace the LSD with quaife LSD.. Loving it and would'nt go back, not my DD but even if it was fuel consumption is not that noticeable..
Yes agreed about the driveability but 30 kw at peak is subjective pending on weather temp and which dyno used.. If your chasing numbers then it sound/looks impressive from just a tune.. but street driving is all about bottom and mid range in my opinion..[just mine] Both points are valid pending each individual use, at the end of the day its all about how deep is your pocket ..
FORGET about the traction control on these cars!!!!!!! They are useless!! all it does is bog it down.. Turn it off , I don't even bother its pointless if your trying to launch it quick.. I LOVE these car''s but there is nothing refine about it, to get it where I want It to be I would need to spent 40k on top of the cost of the car then It would be where I need it to be.. But spending that much more on it I'd rather buy another/different car to achieve what I want out of it...
Save your money and just get better air filters, but get that issue fixed before you spend any more money on that money PIT. Don't even bother with a tune! not worth $1500 for absolutely minimum gain!! If you want good real reliable results then super charge it! These cars are almost tuned to the max out of the box and you wont get much more out of them regardless of what bolt on you put on. Don't forget that the drive train on these cars are almost 20 years OLD and for what it is they are under powered for my liking.. not bad for NA though. Do some extensive research and you will understand what I mean..
Q: I'm running 408 final drive with a Quaife Diff on my 370Z and the recommended Oil for my set up is as per the below which Award Diff suggested, give them a call as they are a reputable company.. You should look them up or call a reputable local supplier.. My advice to you is to make sure you take it to a diff specialist and not an everyday mechanic!! This is specialised work!!
[We would recommend using Castrol Axle Limited Slip 85W-140 mineral oil. This oil is readily available from Repco stores and the Repco part number is 3377666.]
AWARD DIFF & GEARBOX SERVICES PTY LTD ABN 51 001 597 735 Licence# 37713 1/18 Anvil Road, Seven Hills NSW 2147 Phone 02 96246600 The Driveline Specialists
Come-ON NISSAN , bring out the new version already and stop recycling and face lifting it to sell more of the same thing . This 370Z Nismo is OLD and no real performance over a standard 370Z!! Drive train is almost 20 years old and no earth chartering R & D from the 350Z... Granted all the fairings ,Interior and some suspension upgrades makes it look great but that's where it stops..
And for people who don't know, you will still experience all the usual stuff when driven hard on all these models even the Nismo version. Just checkout the US forums. List as follows: - CSC will eventually fail [need to get an aftermarket CSC replacement] - Engine heat through the driver side firewall - No Insulation [cabin noise] - Power steering fluid will boil [need a larger oil cooler] - Limp mode when engine gets to hot [need a larger oil cooler and a 3 layer radiator] - Crap traction control & LSD Love these cars and how they look but lacks refinement!!
General2020 - - MCA BLUES,X series,Reds or Golds pending on your use. Keep in Australian ,plus MCA does there own R & D and its a local good product if you ask me [but I could be biased] Josh form MCA is extremely helpful and will custom your front & rear spring rates. - Get the right Off set!!!! spacers are Illegal which means your insurance wont cover you if they find out. [your risk] - Don't cheap out on tyres and get the right size, don't have them stretched out. - Get the right camber,toe etc.. kit so you get it adjusted accordingly , you will need it the minute you lower the car.. [up to you if you want your tiers to last]
If you have you have deep pockets Id be getting the M3 hands down but they can cost you more than the cars worth if anything goes wrong with them based from experience, pending on which M3 [older models not the V8] the 370Z will be just as good in terms of performance and a whole lot CHEAPER to repair over the M3.. 86 is a great car but has ZERO performance, you can get every single bolt-on and a tune on the 86 and they will still be a slug!!!! if the 86 were boosted I would have bought it over the Z..
The 370Z is a great car, its a poor mans sports car and its a sports car to buy if you cant afford to buy the real thing hence why I have one. If you don't plan on tracking the Z they are great cars and has reasonably good performance for the everyday guy, they have a number of challenges if you ever decide to track the car.. They are also reasonably cheap to do up compared to an M3.. Do your research well , its all about your expectation and use.. Good luck!!