Welcome to Zclub - Australia's Largest Nissan 370Z and Nissan 350Z Forum
Register for FREE to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing topics, give reputation to other members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. This message will be removed once you have signed in.
I run 18x9.5 +22 mm and 18x10.5 +22 mm. Haven't lowered it yet though. Consider running 18x9.5 +22 mm and 18x9.5 +12 mm for a cheaper set of tyres with 245/45R18 and 265/45R18 fitment. Your speedometer will read true at that point, and you'll fill the guards without having to dump the car and scrape it over the smallest speed humps. 255/40R18 and 275/40R18 should be considered also if you feel it looks too meaty - I will run a lower profile once I lower it and the rubber wears. Currently, I only drive the car once a month so that won't be for another few years. Check out the spreadsheet I attached - I've used it to quickly gauge how aggressive the wheel geometry is. As for coil-overs, I'm looking at the Tein Flex Z with EDFCII: https://www.tein.co.jp/srch/eng_search.php?maker=default&restype=1&srchfrwd=Z33 as I've had Tein in my old Subaru Liberty and loved them. I'll let the photos do the convincing.Wheel Dimensions.xlsx
18x9.5 will poke too much up front with OEM suspension geometry. I run a slightly stretched 245/45R18 up front and have +22 offset only. A squarer tire fitment would be 255 but steering may begin feeling too heavy, especially when doing reverse parallel parking haha ...with a 45% aspect ratio, you'd only lower the front by 10-15 mm if you don't want to mess with the body panels. Doing that would inherently induce some camber.
Forget the Aussie-spec Sports Tuff - get the JDM-spec stuff from Japan (NK07HF▲1 ) for less. I paid circa-$1200 freighted to my door. http://www.exedy-racing.com/racing/en/fitting/index_car.php?m=NISSAN&c=FAIRLADY+Z&t=Z33（Late+model）・Z34
Done? I only stumbled across this today. The wiring runs along the driver's side door, half way up the B-pillar and then all the way around the boot to the rear left wheel arch. You do have to rip up all the trim and you'll end up with a stripped car haha
It's probably a dual mass flywheel and clutch arrangement that is prematurely wearing. If not, it may simply be an inherent characteristic of its design. I dare say it is a design flaw though. I'm yet to swap mine out in March.
I have this problem when the `08 Z has warmed up only. It happens specifically when the engine is under 2000 RPM and I start accelerating. It's only if I feather the accelerator and gradually build speed can I avoid a shudder, so in traffic I kick the clutch instead and rev it up to 1500 RPM and slip it back into gear. I've bought myself a new clutch kit, inclusive of a flywheel. I won't get around to the single mass flywheel conversion til later this year. By the way, check your rear diff mounts to ensure that the longitudinal one hasn't torn and leaked out the damping fluid. I replaced mine as it was torn and leaked out. I also swapped out the transmission fluid and that didn't improve anything. I suspect it's a flywheel and heat issue. Keep us posted on your diagnosis of the problem.
Very few coil-overs are designed for improved comfort. I wouldn't try and put in $700 springs/shocks/coil-overs in a Z. That's backwards. Spend at least $1,000 or leave it alone. Most coil-overs have springs that are 50% stiffer than the standard ones.
Tein Flex Z is approx. $1200 or less shipped to your door. I used Tein Street Flex in a Subaru and I loved it. I might be getting another set of Tein coil-overs for the Z myself. Talk to Jesse G. Streeter.
Did the kit include the bushing and bearing? Did they supply new bolts for the flywheel as well? Is the kit you got NK07HF? Sorry for spamming all these questions. I'm thinking of buying one from Japan real soon - today or tomorrow.
Or you can DIY it. I reused an Alpine ICS-X7 and bought nothing other than the Nissan-to-ISO harness and then spliced that to the Alpine loom. If you choose to reuse the existing Bose amp, then you need a Bose-to-ISO specific harness. FYI, it is a messy job so don't try it unless you're committed. As advised, a decent touch screen with Bluetooth capabilities will set you back about $650. The trim kit will set you back another $50-$100 inclusive of harness. Give some thought to upgrading the front speakers as they lack high end clarity. You'd only have to spend $100-$200 for a notable improvement. You can trim the OEM speakers and use them as spacers for 6.5" replacements. I bought Pioneer speakers in Japan, but I'd recommend going with Focals or something similar.