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  1. ugame added a post in a topic Australian 370z 40th   


    EXACTLY!

    Here's a fact that may suprise some of you as I'm new here....

    If it wasn't for the Aussie taxes, I wouldn't even be driving a 350Z right now, I'd be driving a Ferrari Testarossa from the UK,

    fact!
  2. Christian Jensen added a post in a topic Australian 370z 40th   

    who would buy a holden or ford if nissan, BMW, mercedes were the same price + shipping and GST as their original country.

    unfortunately it is mainly the government with their tax to make Australian cars more competitive
  3. zed34 added a post in a topic Australian 370z 40th   

    R35 GTR in America - 80k
    R35 GTR in Australia - 160k

    Total crap. How can the same car have that much of a variance in price? Even when you take out the volume of the US, the price difference is ridiculous.


    Don't get me wrong I love Nissan cars, but it does suck to deal with the Nissan Australia attitude.
  4. ugame added a post in a topic Australian 370z 40th   


    Dont blame "nissan", blaim "nissan Australia".

    Some nissan Australia FACTS for you.

    The 300ZX was NEVER sold with Twin Turbo's in Aus. All TT's are imports.
    The 350Z in every other country comes with a GPS option. In Aus, we have a lolly holder
    The 370Z in every other country came with the awsome looking 19's from day 1. In Aus, the original 370Z only had the fugly (sorry to say) 18's
    The 370Z in other countires has several options to make it more affordable. inc NO GPS. In Australia, we can ONLY buy the TOP model, and at Top Dolla
    Nissan Australia dont have a OEM car cover for the 350Z. And can't get them. They can get a guy in eastern states to custom make one for you for $600 if you like...... and yet in the USA, you can BUY an OEM cover for just over $100 US.


    I LOVE nissans. But Nissan Australia are dictating what they think we should be able to buy. And they've been doing it since the 80's.

    And this is just on the Z range.

    How about, no G35, or 370GT? Again, all imports.

    No 180sx EVER

    Even if they opened up thier own "imports devision" if they dont want to hold these things in stock, that would be a step in the right direction and maybe they'd be able to control a market thay THEY blame for falling used car prices.
  5. John added a post in a topic Landing Strip Leds Lights & Blackout Headlights   

    Hi I'm willing to help in any way and I will post where they will remove the lens just I'm at work ,when I get home tonight I will get back on bye from John .
  6. zed34 added a post in a topic Spacers vs offset   

    Great post topic!

    This is the law on modifications in Victoria - http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/CC48FC10-4D57-4F04-82E1-3BD72EF88340/0/VSI8.pdf

    Page 4 on the left regarding spacers.


    Even is right, spacers put more stress on the wheel hub and bearing as the effective offset from the 0 point is pushed outwards and the mechanical force is multiplied. Aftermarket Volks with aggressive offset do the same thing, so it's not really a concern from a stress on the hub perspective, the only concern is the bolt strength and fitment. What was said about replacements stud bolts vs extension bolts is very true. NEVER use the extension style as they are dangerous in my opinion. I would only use the type Majestik has with the replacement, longer and case hardened bolts. Also if the spacer plate doesn't sit perfectly against the hub, it will vibrate and put more stress on everything.

    If you do this mod, always use the best product out there. Read the US the370z.com forum for full reviews on all products.

    I've always thought a good product would be an replacement HUB that has a thicker wall that effectively has the 20mm plate already on it. This way the wheel could just bolt up as normal and it would be perfectly safe.
  7. Majestik added a post in a topic Story Time..   

    "What ya talkin' 'bout Willis?
  8. gromano added a post in a topic Landing Strip Leds Lights & Blackout Headlights   


    NICE! I was waiting for someone in Australia with the balls/know how to do this hahahha
    I am so close to sending my headlights to the US for the MRWorks treatment but its gonna cost me round $900AUD in the end! I would rather do it myself and spend my money elsewhere!!
    You interested in making another wiring harness then like you used?
    Who got the lens off for you and did the painting? Let me know!!
  9. Kam80 added a post in a topic bodykit made in aus?   

    Freddy at Topstage (www.topstage.com). He made my sideskirts by using the originals as moulds and added a carbon lip to them, also my front lip in carbon, carbon cannards and he fixed a broken carbon bonnet I brought to him then sprayed it over in candy so it looks black unless the light hits it, then you can see the carbon through the paint.

    If you picked up the trend, yes he specializes in making stuff out of carbon but will also work with fibreglass. I first met him when he was starting out trying to get business from Autosaloners, now he builds dry carbon body parts for high-end race cars. Highly recommended, especially if you have something specific in mind...and what it made from carbon.
  10. zed34 added a post in a topic Story Time..   


    he who drive a 40th anniversary Z, as you have been selected to sample "gertrude" the wonderous recipe from the far land of Zclubonia with its mysterious 7.5 herbs and spices. Ronnie, overwhelmed with such an offer and a little confused about what the Llama was talking about or if it was just the crack talking, he replied...
  11. JESSKA added a post in a topic [VIC] Spotted!   


    A Blue 350z with a kit driving along Warrigul road chadstone yesterday
  12. Majestik added a post in a topic Spacers vs offset   

    Btw mine was a proper H&R kit with extended studs etc.
  13. BGTV8 added a post in a topic Spacers vs offset   


    The problem with spacers is that you bolt the spacer to the hub and then bolt the wheel to the spacer - so that any looseness of the ficing of the spacer to the hub is hidden by the wheel itself. In competiiton, spacers can be used if they are fixed to the rear flange face of the wheel itself and the studs in the hub pass thru the spacer AND the wheel. All of the spacers I have seen are bolted to the hub and carry short studs that are used to bolt the wheel to the spacer ... on the basis that fitting longer studs is too hard ....

    If I was going to use a "spacer", I would make real sure that I understood the torque requirements of the studs on the hub and I used a torque wrench to fit the spacer to the specified torque setting ....

    The various road authorities are basiing their objections to the Wheel and Rim "design standards" that says "wheels shall be directly affixed to the hub" and spacers don;t follow this design standard ... a spacer is fixed to the hub and the wheel is fixed to the spacer and therefore the wheel is indirecxtly affixed to the hub, not directly fixed ....
  14. JESSKA added a post in a topic Story Time..   


    has this turned into a 'choose your own adventure' lol
  15. evse82 added a post in a topic Motor Magazine BFYB   

    Yeah i've always said to myself, I'll keep buying a manual until the options include automated manual dual clutches... then I'll have to think about it harder.... lol
  16. gumpy added a post in a topic Story Time..   


    that the pot smoke had added a delightful smokey flavour to the already awesome 7.5 herbs and spices... so good in fact the Llama started to itself only to be disturbed by....
  17. evse82 added a post in a topic Story Time..   

    it was now smoking crack, but what was even more amazing was the crack gave the liama the ability to speak, It turned to Ronnie and with a masculine yet feminine voice said "Halt............
  18. gumpy added a post in a topic Motor Magazine BFYB   


    Oh 100%, if the test was best bang for under 100k... we'd be top 2 or 3, maybe number 1. It's just when scaled against the dollar value...

    I actually prefer our seats (i use to own a polo gti which had the same seats as the golf) but agreed that the dsg box is a nice one... though you should be driving manual anyway =)
  19. evse82 added a post in a topic Spacers vs offset   

    The only issue with insurance would come if you have a really big accident and cause a lot of damage. They will almost certainly inspect every part of the car and if they find something which is illegal, they'll try to void the cover....
  20. evse82 added a post in a topic Landing Strip Leds Lights & Blackout Headlights   

    Haha I wanted to put the LEDs in myself but chickened out at the thought of drilling the plastic.... Once I build up the courage I'll do it....... still too scared though haha

    I half took off the bumper bar though a few months ago...... then had an image in my head of having to order new headlights after I break my ones, so i put it back on again
  21. JESSKA added a post in a topic Story Time..   


    When Jesska looked over to see Gumpy smoking crack! So she threw the Llama in his direction, wiping out all the butterflies in his head. The Llama woke in a state of confusion to find.....
  22. Majestik added a post in a topic Spacers vs offset   

    I just claimed insurance with them on. No issues cause as far as I was concerned, I didn't know they were illegal and I had paid good money for them and fitted by a reputable business.

    The insurance company couldn't say squat cause the spacers had nothing to do with my damages.

    Cops on the other hand wouldn't suspect a 370z to look any different from what mine looks like. I'm
    more worried about the volume of my car and height of the cans than the spacers....
  23. mintlin added a post in a topic Spacers vs offset   

    How's the heat like with the cops and insurance companies ?
    I rang the dept of transport in WA and they pretty much said they're illegal on any road car except for factory optioned Porsches.
  24. John added a topic in DIY   

    Landing Strip Leds Lights & Blackout Headlights
    Hello everyone
    I had put a topic about the leds lights that look like the landing strip had no luck ,but I gave it a go and with great success,there are two web sites followed the do it your self ,I did every thing myself except for the removing of the lens of the lights and the spray job but every thing eles I did myself .If you want to know my I wil be happy to work it out with you bye for from John

    Tools Needed:
    12v battery for testing. I used some old RC car batteries and wired them up for 12 volts. Attached alligator clips for ease of testing
    drill with 3/16" bit and a much smaller bit for pilot holes
    screwdrivers
    wire-strippers
    soldering iron w/ solder and flux
    2-part epoxy adhesive
    Oven (large enough for your headlights, test-fit please)
    A hobby knife will make some things easier


    Materials Needed:
    * 18x White LED's - Part # C513A-WSN-CV0Y0151 or C513A-WSS-CV0Y0151
    * 6x 150 ohm 1/4 watt or 150 ohm 1/2 watt resistors from radio shack
    3x strings of 24 guage wire, sold as a set from radio shack. 25 feet long each (Red, Black, and Green)
    1x can of krylon fuzion paint, I used Satin Black and it is about 75% gloss
    I ordered a set of spray-can matched paint to my pearl white from
    tons of heat shrink tubing that will fit the 24 gauge wire. make sure you have some that can fit 2 of them in one as well.
    Patience, you will need a lot of it

    *Note, for the LED's and resistors, it doesn't hurt to get more than you need. I got 25 LED's and 10 resistors, but ended up using only the 18 and 6 since they all worked perfectly. Be safe and grab a few extra.

    **********
    For those that are mechanically inclined that want to do this themselves, but aren't comfortable working with the LED wiring:
    If you want me to make an identical wire harness for you, I am willing to wire everything for you. You can feel free to pm me and I will send instructions on what you have to do.
    **********


    Step 1: Remove bumper
    Step 2: Remove headlights
    Thanks DIGItonium for those DIY's!

    Picture of the back of the headlight to see what all is back there:



    Now, strip one headlight of everything you can easily get off. Remove the wiring harness w/ bulbs, all brackets that come off, all visible screws besides the headlight adjustment screws, remove ballast but you'll have to leave the wire between it and the bulb, remove the HID bulb as well. I suggest doing 1 side at a time, that way you always have a completed assembly to reference if you need it.

    It is time to bake, so preheat the oven to 250 degrees, and pull all but the bottom rack out. (you may want to test fit the lights before preheating, mine BARELY fit in my oven). You will set the light on a cookie sheet with a damp wash cloth between the cookie sheet and the headlights to ensure the cookie sheet doesn't melt anything. Bake for 8-12 mins. I pulled mine out at 8 and it needed a bit longer.

    I suggest having a pair of mechanix gloves for this, but now it is time to pull the lens off. Once the light is out of the oven, start at the very top of the light and start peeling the lens off. I don't suggest using a screwdriver or anything like that to pry it open, just use some muscle and maybe a plastic spreader or something. Be careful of all the tabs holding the lights on and take your time getting the lens off, there is no room for screwing this up

    Alright, the scary part is over now! this is what you should see:



    Lets get all of those reflectors out now. You should see 6 or 7 small phillips head screws holding the reflectors to the lens. Remove all of them and pull the assembly out. If you removed all of the screws, the rest of the parts should be easily popped out too.



    Time to start the drilling for the holes. I used 5mm LED's, so the drill bit that I used to get the right size for the LED was 3/16", but definitely don't start out with that big of a bit. I used a really small bit to drill a pilot hole for each one before using the 3/16" bit. You want to drill the holes on the very back side of each dimple, so position your pilot hole right in the middle of where you want your hole to be. Just go in straight against the surface, and when you get the bit all the way through, tilt the drill down to where the bit is going through from the front. You will do the same thing with the bigger bit. Basically have the drill bit coming out where you want your LED pointing.




    A View from the back side:


    These holes will position your LED's, so take your time and make sure you get the angles right, you'll see in one of my pictures the 3rd LED from the front wasn't angled correctly, and I had to maneuver it a little more to get it right. That extra step would have been saved with a little more time taken on this step.

    Alright, with your holes drilled, it's time to wire up a strand of LED's for testing to make sure the holes are exactly right before you go paint. Cut 6 strips of green wire at about 3 inches in length each. cut 2 strips of red, and 2 strips of black in the same length. I also trimmed the leads on my LED's so they weren't quite so long, just remember that the side with the longer lead is the positive side, so if you trim them keep that side a little longer for reference. I trimmed the resistors leads as well, these don't matter which side is positive and which is negative.

    Here is the basic wiring diagram for 1 side of headlights:


    I'd just wire up 1 strand of 3 right now to test with, the rest you can wire up while your paint is drying. Take 1 end of the red wire and solder it to the positive side of an LED. Then on the negative side of that LED run a green wire to the positive of another, then do the same thing so you have: red wire -> LED -> green wire -> LED -> green wire -> LED. Now the resistor needs to go on the negative side of this wiring. I soldered mine directly to the LED lead, and then soldered on the black wire on the other end of that. Make sure you use heat shrink over each solder, you don't want any shorts after you get it together.

    Use a 12v battery with alligator clips to test that your string works. once it is working plug it into the holes you drilled and test each one for angle and make sure you are happy:



    back side:


    A shot of the whole wiring harness to give you an idea of what 1 of the strands would look like:


    Ok, once you are happy you can go paint your headlights whatever style you want. Make sure you mask the turn signal lens, and I masked behind the amber side marker as well since I wanted to keep it amber. You can paint black behind it for the "smoked" look. You can look at Simota's DIY for painting tips: DIY how to make your headlights black housing with 20 bucks...

    While your paint is drying, wire up another string of 3 just like you did with the first. You should have 2 strings now, with a total of 6 LED's wired. on the last string of 3 for this headlight, don't use the short red and black wire. This will be the top set, and will have a length of wire to go all the way to the wiring harness you tap into outside of the headlight. On this one I used 5ft lengths of each, red and black, and wired those in place of the 3 inch strips on each end.

    Now to pull it all together into 1 harness. You will need your housing again for this, so you will probably have to wait until it is dry (or between coats if it is dry enough to put 3 LED's in there real fast). Put the strip with the 5ft leads in the top 3 slots, and mark each wire every third hole. I put the negative side at the very top, so I marked the black wire on the 4th hole from the top, then at the 7th hole from the top. The red wire was the n marked at the 6th hole from the top, and the 1st hole at the very bottom. Theoretically both sides should be about the same length so you should only NEED to mark 1 and just copy it on the other side, but I marked both.

    Once you have them marked you are done with the housing for now, so you can finish painting if you haven't. On each of the marks, strip off about 1/2" of the insulation, but don't cut the wire. Start on the middle one and wire in your string of 3 LED's and just connect the red end of the strip to the red wire, black end to black. Make sure the wire is facing in such a way that you can slip some heat shrink tubing on the very end of the wire and bring it up and over the joint. once you have the shrink tubing on do the same thing with the bottom. Your completed wiring harness should look like:



    Go ahead and test your work and hook up your harness to the 12v battery you have and make sure all 9 LEDs are working and at the same brightness. I hope your painting is done because it's time to mount the LED's and start re-assembling.

    Alright, time to install the harness. You will want the extra length of wire at the bottom end of the headlight, so keep that in mind when you are putting the LED's in their holes. You should just have to lightly press the LED's into each slot, if it takes too much force you may have to drill it out a tiny bit more with the same 3/16" drill bit...that may happen if you got a decent bit of paint in the holes. Don't worry about where the wires are right now, just get all the LED's in the housing and test them again to make sure the angles are good.

    (here is where you see that 3rd LED from the bottom that isn't angled correctly, this was fixed later)





    Once you are happy, flip it back over and mix up some Epoxy. I used a Q-tip to get some epoxy on the backside of each LED to hold them in place. Since they are pressed in holes that are the right diameter for them, they will likely stay by themselves, but the epoxy is a safety precaution so they don't move later on. Once you get all the LED's glue'd down tuck the wires in that channel you can use a little epoxy sparingly to hold it down in there. the back side should look like this:



    flash+chrome = fail


    Once that is done, re-attach all of the pieces of the housing and get it ready to re-install. Now is a good time to make sure the inside of the lens is nice and clean, before you put the reflector assembly back into the lens. Ok, now we need to route the wiring through the rest of the housing and out to where we can tap into the parking light wiring.

    This is how I did it. I ran the wires behind the projector housing to keep them out of the way, and then brought them through this grommet that is holding the wiring for the turn signal LED's:



    I just drilled 2 small holes into the rubber grommet and brought the wire through. Once you have them through you are ready to seal the lens. Heat that oven back up!

    *** Update: I have figured out an easier way to wire it to the parking lights. Just run the wires to the small connector inside the housing that goes to the little circuit board with the Amber LED sidemarkers in it. This connector gets power with the parking lights, and now you won't have to run any sort of wireo utside of the headlight itself. ***

    How I put them back together was I put the lens on as best as I could with the old silicone still in place, then heated it up just as I did when I removed the lens. Pull the headlight out of the oven and just pinch the lens down all around the seal. you should be able to get the lens back into place, with all of the tabs locked by hand. Let the housing cool about 5-10 mins, and then secure the lens with all of the screws. This should pull the lens in just like it was from the factory. For added security, I took a bead of new silicone all the way around the seal.

    Now to finish off the wiring. If you want your LED's on with your parking lights you can do what I did. Put the wiring harness back together on the headlight, except leave the parking light out of it's socket. There is a green and a black wire going into that bulb, just match red to green and black to black and you are good to go. I stripped a little insulation off on each one and soldered them on and just wrapped each of them in electrical tape.



    Re-assemble everything and repeat everything above for the other light. Your second set will probably go quicker since you are now experienced =)

    Finished product:









    Credit - the370z Forum



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  25. darkoj added a post in a topic [VIC] Spotted!   

    Another 350Z parked outside at the entrance to Parliament station, today 9PM.